Highlights of the last seven days: baroque crumble in Lecce, risotto with lemon zest and gamberetti, oak-lined and terrifyingly curvy bus journey over the Gargano, wavy seas at Vieste, olive groves and shade, proper pine scents, a three hour wait in a car park, pisspoor Italian, bumpy up from Pescara, mass at a duomo, licky puppy, milky sunrise, apricot sunset, R and seven days in the same place.